West Clare

by Alison Carr

In 1995 I was living in VictorianB.C. Canada. Seamus Heaney had won the Nobel Prize for literature. Passing munroe’s book store window on Government St. a big cardboard cut out of Heaney caught me eye. Out of curiosity I bought his book , I knew nothing about poetry. I read postscript and boom my life was changed. An erratic love affair with west Clare was born. https://youtu.be/eczY3nny7fk courtesy @monkeypees

past and present

Greetings from the Wild Atlantic Way well thats what the marketing gurus branded it. A stroke of genius I may add. For years we apologised for the ferocious Atlantic ocean gnawing at our western shore. The west coast of Ireland is susceptible to the rear end of storms and hurricanes coming from the Americas, hence all the wind and rain.

When that wind subsides. Wow…it is beautiful.

The west of Ireland’s greatest export for the past 150 years were it’s people. Emigration was rife from this part of the Country. Farms are small, many contain uncultivated land. In the 1960’s tourism opened up and some filtered into this region. However it is seasonal and the winters are long.

So if you don’t come here for the weather, nor for economic gain why come to west clare?

playtime

West Clare boasts of some of the best surf on this planet. From beginners to World Class big wave surfers all levels can find the perfect wave to suit them here. In 2000 west Clare began to receive notoriety on the World’s surfing stage. From Bali to Hawaii they flocked to catch the Atlantic waves. Young men and women gave up jobs as software engineers, lab technicians, hotel managers to come and dedicate their lives to surfing.

If you are in the area. Lahinch is the best spot to learn with numerous surf schools. If you can surf already contact the West Coast Surf Club and you can borrow some gear. The surfing community has a very socialist bias. Sunday morning’s has a kids club from around 7yrs to 14 boys and girls meet with some of the most experienced veteran surfers keeping a watchful eye and honing their skills. https://www.westcoastsurfclub.com/

Instead of flocking to the cliffs of Moher car park. Try loop head cliffs further down the coast line. Less crowded and no parking fees. If it is dramatic views and height you are looking for head north. County Donegal has the tallest cliffs in Europe, Sliabh Liag (Slieve League) Cliffs over 600metres high.

Music. In the 1960’s folk music began to make waves in America Joni Mitchell, Bob Dylan, John Prine and their cohort inspired a new generation of music lovers. Musicians went in search of roots and origins. They found what they were looking for in Clare. Seat of Irish traditional music. Willy Clancy the uileann pipe player from Miltown Malbay. http://oac.ie/site/ The Willy Clancy summer school runs in July. From the age of 3 to 103 all can learn to play an instrument, dance or sing the cannon of local folk songs in the Irish language

Music venues for drop in sessions;

Kennys White horse session Lahinch, not just traditional. From Up and coming young talents like Susan O’Neill, Wallis Bird to old school local boys The Walls, Serious Mischief reggae bands, the Fiddle Case.

The Kenny family along with Hotel Doolin sponsor a folk festival worth checking out every year.

The corner Stone Pub Lahinch for traditional, Eoin O Neill, Yvonne Casey, Luka Bloom in the winter on a Thursday night having a session hugging mugs of tea.

Magic Seaweed

Foraging and cooking with seaweed has become popular. This ancient old Irish tradition is making a renaissance as this super food comes back in fashion. Unlike mushrooms that can be poisonous if misidentified, Seaweed is good for your diet, your skin, hair, your garden and your general mental well being. From Flaggy shore to Kilkee there are an astounding 200 varieties to be found. Foragers meet on a regular basis in the Cheese Press cafe in Ennistymon. If you are exceptionally keen contact Oonagh O’Dwyer, West Clare Author, Chef and Owner of Wild Kitchenhttp://wild kitchen.ie

Thrift Stores and preloved clothes can be found in the town of Ennistymon. A new energy is about the town breton creperie, artisan cheesemakers, musicians, coffee roasters and tattoo artists all getting away from the big smoke are gravitating to this bijoux spot.