Malaga City

by Alison Carr

past and present

Malaga is three thousand years old making it older than Madrid, Barcelona and Bilbao combined. This city is a humble jewel and like most humble things it underestimates it’s own brilliance. Malaga’s antiquity and architectural splendour have gone largely unnoticed. Since the inception of the package deal holiday in the 1960’s millions of tourists have flocked to Malaga airport, hopped on transfer buses only to be whisked away to beach resorts ignoring this absolute delight of a city.

I cannot be impartial when I tell you about Malaga. I currently live in Ireland but Malaga City is where my heart lies. In some ways it is my true home. The language and climate may be different but in my opinion the people from Malaga share a similar psyche as the Irish. They are chatty, not great at following rules, have a great colloquial sense of humour, much of their traditions and social lives centre around Roman Catholic traditions as opposed to practicing the faith, and finally they are exceptionally laid back. With keeping these things in mind go embrace Malaga City.

Zooming through Malaga city’s timeline like this does not do it justice. However, it will illustrate the rich and varied tapestry of Architecture this city has to offer. Malaga was granted city status back in 770 BC when it founded by the Phoenicians. Malaca or Malaka 200 yrs later it fell into the hand of the Carthaginians until yielding to the Romans in 218 AD. The Teatro Romano that is nestled underneath the Moorish Fort of Alcabaza dates back to Augustine the Great. For five hundred years it remained under Roman rule. Some of the finest roman remains outside Italy can be discovered in Malaga and the surrounding mountains of Andalusia.

Looking out from Malaga Port you can see Africa . In the early 700’s the Moors conquered what is now southern Spain today. Due to its geographical location Malaga has always been a vital port throughout history. Even today it is the second largest port in Spain. Malaga was regained by the Christians in the 12th Century. From the 16th Century until the 19th the downtown area as we know it today was developed. A serious of natural disasters in the 18th Century caused economical stagnation. This enabled the Malaga city to freeze in time. How Europeans manage to bypass this architectural and archeological wonderland that is on there doorstep never ceases to amaze me.

One of the many great thing Malaga offers is that you can eat and drink 24hrs a day but to say the city never sleeps would be wrong. Most shops are closed between 13.00hrs and 16.00hrs or 14.00hrs to 18.00hrs for siesta. Family, friends and relaxation are crucial in this bustling city. So what do you do during these hours? Join them..

images: roman amphitheatre am carr, Shakespeare’s Othello (the moor) played by Ira Aldridge first African American performer on a British Stage courtesty National Geopgraphic, Pompidou Centre Malaga Port am carr

playtime

Oh where do I begin? Malagueños love to play. Incidentally a Malagueña is a Spanish folk song that derives from the Fandango. It tends to get bunched in with Andalusian Flamenco. The rest of Spain refer to Malaga residents as los Boquerones (fresh anchovies) . They certainly do eat loads of them.

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Malaga is a walkers city. You could grab a free bike, use the local bus service (it’s cheap and the wifi is great) even the taxis are reasonable however walking is the way to go. I always choose to start any visit to downtown Malaga at the Teatro Romano. In this wide open space your back is the amazing Picasso Museum https://www.museopicassomalaga.org/en. Next door to the museum is the iconic El Pimpi sherry bar. If you look down at your feet you are standing on a thick glass pavement, underneath you view the tunnels that gladiators once walked through to face the crowd in the amphitheatre that is in front of you. The Moorish forts towering over you. To your left you can amble down Arabic streets littered with tea rooms there is even a Hammam in this district. To your right the beautiful Cathedral cloaked with scented orange groves spins off to a web of narrow streets teeming with tiny tapas bars and cafes. Don’t use a map just wander.

Semana Santa is a glorious sight. The Easter processions are a riot of costumes, vivid colour and austentatious icons swaying down Calle Larios. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O8JQB2fF__I

Feria Time is every Malaga boy, girl, Mamma, Papa, Grandparents favourite time of year. The Feria (the Fair) A celebration of Andalusian Dress, Music, Dance, Sherry and Fun. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LYBZQhEp7OU. This is also a great time of year for Clubbers check out what D.J’s are in the city for the Feria. Gay Pride is usually the week before.

Biblioteca: Libraries, Spain invests heavily in libraries and social amenities. Downtown libraries have the most interesting activities, you could try a free Spanish lesson.

Malaga city adores children and they are welcome everywhere it is not unusual to see children on the street at 1am. If you are feeling overwhelmed with the crowds in the bustling narrow streets head for the Pier. There are lots of open spaces for them to run. There is even a beach downtown.

Check out the Carmen Thyssen Art Gallery, often on a Sunday actors from the Cervantes theatre do free story time for the smallies. Regaling them with spanish folk stories through drawing, singing and simple storytelling.

Due to the warm climate, Malaga residents spend most of their time outdoors. Their homes are quite basic. They eat and play mainly outdoor hence the abundance of amenities and facilities. Every few blocks there will be a Parque Recreo for kids to gather. Centro Comunidades Ciudad ( community centres like YMCA’s) have amazing really cheap facilities. Usually there is no charge to use basketball courts, skate parks and there is always a nice cheap local cafe or bar attached.

Art, Theatre and Film

Antonio Banderas is from Malaga city there’s even a street named after him. As a teenager he moved to Madrid to study with Spanish national theatre. A chance meeting outside a cafe with Pedro Almodóvar led to him being cast in his first movie at 19 Labertines de paciones ( he played a gay terrorist). Almodóvar bravely led Spanish cinema out of Franco’s darkness and Catholic oppression. Renowned for being an explosive artist Almodóvar has fallen out with many of his leading actors. Banderas still collaborates with him. Banderas has given so much back to his city. He spearheaded a regeneration of Malaga Port, the marginalised west of the city, he has even built a theatre. Banderas’s patronage has ensured the Malaga Film festival is now one of the most recognised in Europe. Many movies are free during the festival and you can avail of subtitles.

Antonio Banderas malaga theatrehttps://youtu.be/G5vZbSpPgG4

Dance:Bailar One of my fondest memories living in Malaga in my 20’s, was waving goodbye to 80’s pop and entering the 90’s music scene. Dance music was just kicking off. I distinctly remember a Prodigy tune belting out. When the ‘banger’ ended the Malaga dance floor cleared and the Flamenco set came on. Every Spaniard in the club grabbed their partner and took to the floor. I was mesmerised, I learnt Malagueńa flamenco quickly so I didn’t stand out anymore. Traditional dancing is like riding a bike or swimming. It is something they just all learn at an early age, male and female. That is what makes Malaga so special.

If perchance you are in to celeb culture. Here are just a few famous people from Malaga whom represent Spanish culture throughout the world. somos de Malagahttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7pBT6oiHAok

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eat and sleep

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Malaga city and food… this topic is too vast. Again, I suggest you get lost and stumble from tapas bar to bar discovering your own favourites. Here are a few starting points.

• Mercado Atarazanas: Malaga’s fresh food market. the Moorish doorway goes back to the 14th Century when boats could float up to enter. I will have my funeral here. This is also the bests place to eat, boquerones(fresh fried little anchovies), gambas( prawns), almequas (tiny clams in garlic lemon and cilantro)
• Sherry: Casa Guardia on Calle Alameda, try the Virgin of Malaga (Sweet) Pedro Ximenez (v.sweet like prune juice), Secco Anjeco (med dry my favourite)
• 1950’s style Bar Orellano off Calle Larios, the lamb is to die for, just ask for Cordero
• Manzanilla: New trendy tapas bar run by local boy whom did well in NYC
• Casa Mira: best ice-cream and turrón shop. (Turron is like a nougat made from Almond)
• Fish: Los Cheringuitos on the beach. Take a number 130 bus or 45 minutes walk out past Malagueta beach to Pedregalego and El Palo. The best espetos (skewers) of fresh fish grilled on the sand in front of you. Watch the sun go down here. Heaven

Sorry but..Anyone who knows me can tell you much to their amusement I am probably one of the few travellers whom does not support Air bnb. In our neoliberal society I have seen the negative effects it has had on cities with houses shortages.

There are lots of nice hostels, pensiones, and owners direct sites, house swap and hotels in general are not too costly.

The surrounding areas of Plaza Merced (remember a ‘C’ in Malaga is an over pronounced ‘th’) has plenty of refurbished apartments for rent. This are was recently regenerated and their is never an issue finding accommodation bar Feria week.

Sport

Padel Malaga cities gift to the sporting world. It is a sport invented in Marbella origionally. Every one from teens, wheelchair bound and Grandmothers play. It is a cross between squash and tennis. Central and South America behind football it would be the second most popular sport.

Basketball malaga have a great team and wonderful facilities

Triathlon Triathlons run every Sunday in the city. I admire them but don’t emulate them. I sit outside with my churros and Tazo (chocolate) watching their fit bodies with painted numbers on their arms pass me by.

well being

Really inexpensive yoga in all Community centres, some are free but if you are slightly shy try here, very informal, all levels and inexpensive 3 min walk from Catedral de la Encarnación de MálagaAddress: Calle Moreno Monroy, 5, 29015 Málaga, SpainPhone: +34 626 08 80 86Province: Málaga

Cudeca (Cuidados del Cancer): The Cudeca Cancer Care Hospice Centre in Benalmadena offers specialist nursing, hospice care and support to cancer patients and their families.

• Cudeca
  At: Avenida del Cosmos s/n, Arroyo de la Miel, 29631 Málaga
  Tel: 952 564 910
  Fax: 952 564 922

https://alcoholics-anonymous.eu/meetings/?tsml-region=malaga

a list of public health centres. All European Union https://www.sspa.juntadeandalucia.es/servicioandaluzdesalud/el-sas/servicios-y-centros/informacion-por-centroscitizens are covered with an E11 form

Association for the Assistance to Victims of Sexual Assault (Asociación Asistencia a Victimas de Agresiones Sexuales)

Tel: 954 905 649